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The Cham ethnic group, who occupied the conquered Kingdom of Champa in Central Vietnam, inspired the style

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Hartig, the museums director, said the collection explores the critically important, often unofficial position that the first lady has had in our history, and the different ways that women, sisters and aunts have shaped the role to make their own contributions to the presidential administrations and, of course, their service as first lady to the nation. The exhibition features more than a dozen gowns, including ones worn by Mary Todd Lincoln, Jacqueline, Kennedy, Laura Bush and Michelle Obama, Hartig said