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The clothes felt of the moment and free of all the assumptions that had always been attached to luxury fashion

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In 1922 the service dress combinations got their own designations: Service dress blue A was all blue with blue cap, B with white cap, and C with white cap, trousers and shoes

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"There's a little more flexibility with the tie these dayslike when wearing a turtleneck underneath a sports coat or blazer, or if it's the summertimebut traditionally, cocktail attire means a tie," says Hurwitz